My family and I recently took a trip to Paris, and I was given the great responsibility of choosing all the food. I, of course, took this very seriously. For me, the most important part of a holiday is to try as much local food as possible. So me being me, I made a spreadsheet… I asked for recommendations from friends, on instagram, did a lot of Googling and scrolling through the wonderful Paris by Mouth. I put everything I found on my spreadsheet, researched and ordered it all – and then I put it into a handy Google map so we could see what we were near when we were out and about. All my choices were a major success, my family approved! I thought I’d share them on here so other people can benefit from my research!
Dinners
Les Arlots, 10th ARR (near Gare du Nord)
This was dinner on our first night, and one we thankfully booked far in advance as it was completely packed. I found this in my googling spree, on Paris By Mouth. It’s a has a bistrot feel with a slightly more modern twist, and the menu mirrors that. The menu is a chalk board, propped up at the end of every table. The walls are covered in shelves absolutely packed with wines. The waiter just asked us what we like from our wine, and brought us a bottle and I can confirm he absolutely knew what he was doing.
For food, I started with a classic pate de campagne which was so rich and meaty, balanced perfectly with cornichons and a sour chutney that I can’t remember what it was… Absolutely delicious though! For main, the entire table got their iconic and famous dish – the sausage with mash and gravy. And this was the best sausage and mash I have EVER eaten. The mash was so smooth, buttery and creamy; the sausage was meaty and the gravy rich and umami. Everyone was very happy with their choices! Of course after all that, I had to make room for the rice pudding (topped with caramel and roasted hazelnuts). The pudding was soo thick and soo creamy, and the hazelnuts added the perfect texture (I am allergic to hazelnuts, but this was worth the risk…). All in all, this was an absolutely amazing first meal – and one of my favourites from the whole trip
Bistrot Paul Bert, 11th ARR
Now this restaurant came highly highly recommended to me by a good friend who spends a lot of time in Paris. He was backed up by Paris by Mouth. From what I can gather, this place is quite renowned as one of the best Bistrots in Paris – and I completely understand why! This is a place you definitely need to book in advance – we thought we had but there seemed to have been a bit of a mixup. So we decided to brave it no booking, and arrived just as they opened to nab one of the only free tables. So lucky!
Bistrot Paul Bert really is a classic French bistrot, but done absolutely perfectly. As I knew I wanted a dessert, my dad and I decided we’d share a starter. We got baked scallops with buttery mushrooms. The scallops were a little overcooked for my liking but the mushroom accompaniment was perfection – especially when mopped up with the fresh bread. For main I went for one of my favourites – steak tartare with chips. Not for everyone, but I love it. The steak was so tender and rich, balanced by the tang of the mix-ins. And the French really know how to do fries! We rounded the meal off with 2 Grand Marnier souffles between 3 of us – they were huge! This souffle was probably the best thing I ate that entire trip, and I’m usually not a dessert person. It was SO light, but the top had the perfect crisp to it. Our bill came with 3 mini caneles – the perfect end! If you only listen to one thing I write in this post, let it be this: GO TO BISTROT PAUL BERT!
Astier, 11th ARR
This restaurant was a last minute find after we realised the mixup with the Paul Bert booking. This meal really polarised the group. I think it was potentially a little too traditionally french for some (we’re talking very rare meat and stinky cheese). I, however, loved it! A very classically french bistrot with a cosy interior. The kind of place I would love to own. In the middle of the restaurant sat their famous cheese trolley.
For food, I started with the pate en croute. This was a special they had on and it was delicious! It was a terrine-like pate wrapped in pastry. For main I went for a french classic – filet de boeuf, peppercorn sauce and potato dauphine (little pillows of fried potato). This was perfect – the meat was rare (as I like it) but still so tender. The sauce was thick, creamy and tasty. The potatoes were crispy but airy in the middle. After all that I didn’t have room for a dessert, but that didn’t stop me stealing some of my brothers roasted figs (delicious) and my mum and sister’s cheese (also delicious). I loved this restaurant, as did my dad and brother – but if you go, make sure everyone in your group is happy with very French food!
Plumb Du Cantal, multiple locations across Paris
This restaurant was a recommendation from my best foodie friend Ros. She promised me comforting mountain food – think cheesy carbs – and this place did not disappoint. The decor felt like being in a restaurant in the alps: lots of wood, checked tablecloths, and jam packed! The menu listed a number of classic French proteins like confit duck or sausage, to be served alongside your choice of cheesy potato sides – aligot or truffade (or salad, but who would pick that over aligot). I opted for the confit duck with aligot, and my brother got the same with truffade. We got served plates with just our protein on, and then the waiter comes over with a copper pan full of your potato dish and pour it onto your plate. I’m not lying when you say you get a MOUNTAIN of potato – so if you go here, please come hungry! I was very disappointed with my attempt…
The confit duck was delicious – juicy and tender with perfectly crispy skin. But the real star was obviously the aligot – I mean you can’t go wrong with obscenely cheesy mash! I tasted some of my brothers truffade too – this is thin slices of potato cooked with goose fat and smothered with tom fraiche (same cheese as aligot).
Bakeries, Lunches & Sweet Treats
Breizh Cafe, galettes, Multiple locations
This is another recommendation from my good friend who spends a lot of time in Paris (my family got to know and completely trust his recommendations). A cafe specialising in galettes (buckweat pancakes) filled with all kind of delicious things. We headed here for lunch on our first day and then again on our penultimate – it was just that good. I hate to admit it, but I had the same thing both times – but it was SO good I didn’t want anything else! I had a special, which was filled with comte, leek fondue (think buttery, braised leeks), creme fraiche and perfectly cooked scallops. The flavour combination was perfect, all packaged up in a delicious and slightly crisp galette. Other galettes on the menu include the classic comte ham and egg, lobster roll, seaweed butter and more. There’s a definite Japanese influence running through the menu.
Check out their website for the menu & locations!
Pierre Herme, Macarons, Multiple locations
This is my favourite macaron shop in London, so I knew it was gonna be good, but I wanted to try some from the source. We were not disappointed! I got a selection of 4 for myself including olive oil; passionfruit and milk chocolate; lychee, raspberry and rose; and creme brulee. Pierre Herme is my favourite because of how inventive the flavours are. Olive oil was my favourite – it even had little chunks of green olive in, which I know sounds weird but trust me! The olive oil made for a very rich and creamy flavour, which was cut through nicely by the salty olive. Don’t get me wrong though, every flavour was delicious!
Take a look at their site for all their flavours and locations.
L’Eclair De Genie, Eclairs, Multiple locations
This was a suggestion from my sister – she visited before on a previous trip to Paris. They do the most beautiful and interestingly flavoured eclairs. I got 2 to split with my brother, so we could try more flavours! Firstly the vanilla and pecan. The eclair shell was so crisp and light, filled with a luxurious vanilla studded custard and topped with crunchy crystallised pecan. Yum! Next we had the salted caramel – which was my favourite. The same shell as before but filled with a buttery, thick caramel.
Take a look at their website here.
Stohrer, Patisserie & Boulanderie, Multiple locations
Another recommendation from our favourite Ros – so you know it’s good. She said the pain aux raisins was the best pastry she’d ever had – I was dubious as I couldn’t believe a pain aux raisins could ever be the best pastry, but I think she was right! We headed to Stohrer for lunch and grabbed a few savoury pastries and a pain aux raisin and shared them on a bench on the street. We got a tarte au chevre, a pastry filled with potatoes and cream, a meat pasty type thing and a ham & cheese wellington (I’ve absolutely got the wrong names here so I’m sorry). All would’ve been much better warmed up, but still they were delicious. My favourite was the tarte aux chevre – huuuuge chunks of goats cheese! Finally onto the star – the pain aux raisin. And Ros was not lying – this pastry was incredible. So crisp on the outside, chewy in the middle, sweet, tart, vanilla-y, perfect!
Check out their site to see locations.
Meert, Le Marais
The last sweet treat I picked up on the last day of the trip was 4 gauffres from Meert. These are thin waffles sandwiching a sweet cream filling. The bakery itself is gorgeous – very old-Parisian. I got 4 flavours to try with my parents – classic vanilla, pecan, pistachio cherry and caramelised biscuit. Our favourite was by far the pecan – such a strong roasted pecan flavour! Followed by the pistachio and cherry, the cherry really cut through the rich pistachio cream.
Learn more on their website.
I had an amazing time in Paris. Seeing my family, wandering around museums, seeing the sights and (most importantly) eating. I love the French attitude to food, and just how many independent and amazing restaurants there are. We need more good French food in London! If you’re taking a trip to Paris anytime soon, I hope my recommendations can be of use. This isn’t an exhaustive list, but it comes from extensive research – and me and my family approve!